What’s better than one day of mega hiking? A lie in! Ha – no I jest, we did another day of mega hiking. This time up to the heady heights of Tianmen Mountain.
Our brilliant organisational skills struck once again as we got a DiDi to the cableway, where we were told we could only choose the short route as the tickets for the world’s longest cableway had sold out. If you are planning to go up TM these are your options:
- A route: Longest cablecar that goes over Zhangjiajie city and to the top of TM, return trip.
- B route: Longest cable car one way, short cable car back. It’s up to you which way round you do it!
- C route: Short cablecar return trip that takes you to the bottom of the Stairway to Heaven.
We were pretty chill with this particular fail as we wanted to climb the 999 Stairway to Heaven and would have missed it going the longer route. So, unfazed and optimistic we hopped in the free shuttle bus (where I got the co-pilot seat like a BOSS) and were whisked away to the cableway station.
I have typed cableway so many times now that it’s lost all meaning… soz about that!
Zach is getting slightly better with hanging precariously from a metal wire as we soar up various mountains, but was heavily concerned about the fact the car was suitable for 8 people of 75kg each – ‘I am not 75kg of a person, Hollie’. Me neither babes, me neither. Luckily our fellow riders consisted of several children and their very petite grandma.
A few minutes later finds you at the base of the ‘Stairway to Heaven’ where you are greeted by endless views of winding roads and the imposing 999 step staircase. Steeling ourselves for the climb, we had a quick stretch and a glug of H2O – then we were off!
It may not surprise you to know that although fairly fit and healthy, we aren’t exactly athletes and have to admit, the climb spanked us pretty darn hard! Those puppies were STEEP! And Zach’s size 10 feet were too large for each narrow step so he ended up front hoofing it up like Mr.Tumnus. But we made it to the top (speeding up when we were merked by an elderly Chinese man in a 3 piece suit). It was a fab sense of achievement, even with legs like jelly and a face like baboons behind.
But dear reader, do you think after a bus, cablecar and 999 step clamber we were at the top of this chunky boi mountain – heck no! What follows is the most escalators I’ve ever seen outside of the London Underground – and they felt like they went on for yonks! It was good for a little recharge but having done limited research (of course), the endlessness came as a bit of a surprise.
We wondered what fast food chain the Chinese had managed to build on such a ridiculously high mountain… reaching the top it was Burger King that won the toss. Could this be the highest place in the world you can chomp on a double Whopper? Possibly…
A lady approached us with her phone and we prepared our best faces ready for another selfie – but she wanted to take a pic of the map we were clutching instead. Pink with embarrassment and map fully studied, we started to explore the top of Tianmen Mountain.
The views once again are crazy and you can walk from platform to platform to get a full 360 of the seemingly endless surrounding area. The route includes well manicured paths, more stairs and several glass-floored walkways. Mr.Ward was not a happy bunny with this at all and shuffled around in the provided shoe covers, clutching the cliff face as I craned my neck over the barriers.
There are 2 types of people in this world – one with a strong and sensible regard for their own mortality and one feral little racoon person whose danger alert dial is broken. They tend to find each other it would seem!
We continued our amble around the multiple routes, discovering another grand Taoist temple, love lock shrines, suspension bridge (never seen the man move so fast) and a spot where you can purchase a wish ribbon to write on attach to the trees. When the wind blows your wish comes true again. It was a very beautiful sight and we added our own wishes for the health and happiness of our friends and family to the crimson fluttering.
With a full loop completed and sunset drawing the day to a close, we headed back down the many escalators and the 999 steep stairs. These were somehow worse going down – the vertigo was real! My poor man had really been through the heights ringer today!
At the base of the steps, we grabbed a quick drink and waited for darkness to fall. At around 6.30pm (time of year dependant) the whole gaff lights up offering an absolute spectacle as different colours dance around the mountain’s giant archway and the stairs glow in sequence.
The past 2 days in Zhangjiajie have been such a feast for the old eyeballs, I’m not sure I’ve seen views like these in my entire life. Truly spectacular!
H&Z x
Watchouts:
- Get there early if you want to take the long cableway! It gets booked out quick – we arrived at 9.30am and it was booked. If you don’t want to do the 999 stairs then this is your route. Equally if you do want to do the stairway, don’t book the long cablecar as you will miss it!
- We are a couple of jokers, but I am in no way overestimating the 999 step climb. A level of fitness or patience is required. Take it easy, take water and take breaks. We passed plenty of people nailing it but also plenty of people/kids having a full on breakdown, swearing they couldn’t go a step further.
- Once again, it is a mountain and very much worth going to see but don’t expect a rural hiking experience if you are a big outdoorsy hiking type. It’s very much a tourist attraction.
- Definitely wait at the base of the stairs in the evening for the light show. But be ready to hotfoot it out of there after seeing some of it – the last short cableway was at 7pm and I have no idea how you get down if you miss it!
Links:
Costs: £125.27 for 3 nights & 3 breakfasts and souvenir (& the loveliest host!)
The Awkward Travellers 
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